Nairobi

The dam near the main gate.

I was struck by the tree with the beautiful pink flowers,

but have no idea what it was.

Likewise this one - there seem to be quite a few of them around.

Erythrina spp. The tree which used to have a non PC (actually illegal) name - in South Africa at any rate. Still one of my favourites, partly because it is often the only flower one sees in winter - this and the weeping boer-bean with the deep red flowers which also blooms in winter (Schotia brachylaena)

The main hall - which houses the dining room and the cafeteria,

the shop and the internet lounge.

My room - P6. Very simple. Quite comfortable.

Much more "me" than room 1407 at the Hilton.

I have visited Nairobi many times, passed through it, attended meetings etc. Not my favourite place in the world, but there are part of it I like. Now I am at a 3 day meeting in the area, but not in Nairobi itself, just outside at a place called Brackenhurst International Conference Centre (http://brackenhurst.com/bicc/index.php?brackeninfoclass=1). More of that anon.

The last blog ended with me getting morose over my beer and peanuts because my better half is 5000km away.

Saturday

Arrive at least 2 hours before departure for an international flight. You get it drummed into your skull by every travel agent, you learn by hard experience. In fact some of them tell you three hours. In Africa it doesn't apply. The reason is that the check in counters generally don't open until about 90 minutes before take off, even for an international flight. Another reason is that the incoming flight is more often than not late. But I guess one cannot take chances. So I was an Antebbe Airport at 8 sharp for my 10h00 flight, KQ411 to Nairobi. Of course I had to wait half an hour in the lobby before being allowed past the scanner and security check. There was a fair queue of folks at the KA counter, the only one open, which I joined. A KA lady in a red uniform came around and gave us baggage tags to affix to our luggage. She looked at mine and said, "Do you have a padlock? You must have a padlock." Now my case is a cheapy from Sears in Gaithersburg, Maryland - it was on a sale. I think we got about 6 suitcases for $40! The skeleton is plastic with a few pieces of metal and the body is canvas. Why would anyone want to put a padlock on that - you could just rip the fabric or the zip if you wanted to get in. I told her I didn't have one - "Oh", she said, "if you give me some money I shall get someone to go and buy you one outside." "Oh no you don't," I thought, "been down this road before". And I have. I told her I would get it wrapped by the plastic guy for $5. She looked sulky and went off to irritate someone else. Duly got it wrapped.

Our plane arrived and we boarded. We took off over the lake and veered left, climbing steeply. The fellow next to me had a bad attitude and seemed intent on spreading himself all over his own seat and mine. The person behind me kept sticking their knees into the back of my seat. Thankfully it was only an hour's flight and by the time they had finished with the endless and rather boring announcements, and served us with soggy chicken pie, bland vanilla cake and a glass of water (I was being good and refused the fruit juice - should have refused the pie and cake as well) we felt the engines pull back as we started our descent and the captain was on the blower telling us to get our acts together for landing.

Made a rather bumpy landing at Nairobi. Small plane so I guess we got chucked around a fair bit by the up-drafts and down-drafts and side-drafts. The only draft they didn't provide was a Castle draught. No problems with passport control and security, and my baggage appeared remarkably quickly, complete with gladwrap. I later discovered that the internal plastic and metal frame had been damaged - what do they do to these things?! So much for Sears sale. 2 down 4 to go. Think I shall purchase an army trommel

The hotel was supposed to pick me up - they had my name and flight number. I scanned the row of waiting drivers on the far side of the barricade a number of times and couldn't see anyone with anything even vaguely resembling my name so wandered down to a kiosk called something about Safari Adventures which I was told could help me. They phoned the hotel, but had no joy, then said they would be glad to take me for $60. I protested that that sounded like a lot of money for a transfer - it normally costs me $26 to get to the Hilton. Ah, I was told, this is outside Nairobi, about 45km away. (The website says 30miles out of Nairobi so I guess that is about right). I phoned my friend who is a Kenyan doctor, and was told $60 was a good price, so agreed and handed over my hard earned bucks.

Maybe the price was good because the car wasn't. It was an ancient Corolla with no air-con and rather worn back seats. The weather was hot and muggy and the traffic abysmal - worse than Kampala if that is possible. We were very soon stuck in a huge "jam" which the driver informed me was because of "all the accidents" - really comforting. Every time we ground to a halt he switched the engine off - I could see the gauge was on reserve so I could see that this was a good idea. The only problem was that switching the engine off automatically popped all the door-locks and switching it on again did not do the reverse. Nairobi is known for thieves and carjackers, and I was sitting with my laptop on my lap, doing some work, so I was a little nervous.

After what seemed like aeons, we got through whatever it was and headed north west on the Naivasha / Nakuru road. My driver didn't seem entirely sure where he was going, which worried me. He drove too fast on the open bits of road, which were not of the best quality to begin with, to make up for the parts where we crawled along because of speed humps, heavy traffic or potholes. We went past places with names like Muthaiga, Ndenderu, Ruaka, and my favourite, Banana Hill. I even saw a notice for the Banana Church but was too slow to take a picture. Must try and get it on my way home. A while later we got to Tigoni, asked some locals (for the third time) for directions, and found the turnoff to Brackenhurst. A short tarred road took us down into a valley and up the other side and then through the gates of the complex.

I tipped the driver - quite a good tip since I was short of change. One of those decisions which I later did not regret, since I also left my Blackberry on his back seat. I am not sure whether it had anything to do with it and whether he would have returned it anyway, but he brought it back. I was so relieved I gave him a bear hug, much to the amusement of the receptionist. They were kind enough to let me eat lunch despite it being 2 o'clock. I had a latte and chicken half sandwich. Well if this is a half sandwich, I am glad I only ordered a half. These Christians eat well!

Spent the afternoon working on some papers and the like - no internet access in the room and then went for a run. There are marked 2.5km and 1km trails through the woodland adjacent to the complex. I did the 2.5km route but did not enjoy the long grass and overhanging branches - I have lived in Africa long enough to be scared of snakes, so rather than run a second lap reverted to the road and ran to the main gate and back, about 3km. I am aware of the upcoming 2 Oceans Half Marathon - not more than 3 weeks away, and the dreaded Southern Cross Drive.

Back at the center there were various Christian groups having meetings - some lusty singing in English from the chapel, but some even lustier singing in kiSwahili (I presume) from the staff quarters up behind the tennis courts. I enjoyed listening to it - there was some pretty good keyboard and bass work from the one group, but didn't feel any urge to join - enough of that back home.

Dinner was simple but filling. Could do without all the fried stuff - they even fried the broccoli (it said so). The other groups were sitting around chatting rather loudly about the saved and the unsaved and their efforts to tilt the balance. OK - less cynicism. They mean well.

Had a short walk around the complex before bed. I found the Baptist seminary library, which seemed very well and lovingly organised, but the books were largely rather old and the most recent journal I could find was 2007. I guess theology does not change that fast so it is less likely to be out of date. But it would have been nice to see at least a few books and journals which didn't look like David Livingstone had personally perused them during his travels. I guess it is all funds related - these things are so expensive.

I did a bit more work and then hit the bed, a large foam mattress (you can feel it) double bed. Put the laptop next to me with the volume down and Windows Media Player on random mode and drifted off to a miscellany of classical and pop. I awoke in the wee hours surprisingly cold and had to get under the blanket rather than just the coverlet.

Sunday

Slept till 8 a.m.!! This is unheard of, mainly because at home the dogs wake when their bladders and bowels begin to twitch, which is often around 5, and the parrot starts calling for his staff to attend his needs around sunrise. It was bright sunlight outside. I looked at the information sheet on the back of the door and discovered that I had missed breakfast. Ah well, less fried whatever. I opened the door and was surprised at the gust of cool air reminding me that we are up in the hills here, not down at the coast or the lake.

I decided to have another run, it being such a beautiful morning. Switched on the geyser (it takes at least half an hour to heat) and got into my gear. I headed out down the road past the small dam to the main gate and then turned right up the long (very long) hill towards Limuru, which I could see in the distance. I passed locals clearly on their way to church and some clearly not on their way to church. I tried to wave rather than say anything on account of not knowing much kiSwahili (or maybe they speak Kikuyu here) and because I was short of breath. An old man waved back and said "Mzee!" which I seem to remember is something like the Zulu "Numzana" meaning, "Sir". I felt good. The kids were mostly shy but a few managed a delighted "Zungu, Zungu" (white person) and one shouted "Hello How are You!" more as a statement than as a greeting or a question I think. Along the side of the main road I noticed that folks had marked out individual mini-plots, fertilised with large quantities of cattle dung, and were growing what looked like spinach as well as other crops. I've seen that in Mpumalanga, near the Kruger Park - there it was maize. Made me think - wouldn't last a second in or near Cape Town - those plants would be gone the minute they became edible, probably before. Maybe Kenyans take the biblical injunction seriously about not reaping what you did not sow!

I passed turnoffs to numerous schools, "universities" (??), farms, the local hospital, a Save our Trees project, lots of community development stuff, a Catholic Monastery, an Anglican church ... but by and large the road was pretty open and afforded lovely views over the tea farms and countryside. I had to keep my ears open for taxi's overtaking behind me (the road was wide enough for 2 vehicles but nothing more) and my eyes open for vehicles approaching me from the front. I didn't give much for my chances should I be run over. All in all it was a very pleasant run though - just over an hour and I guess about 8km. Nothing too strenuous.

After a shower and change I headed for the cafeteria, found a nice table in the corner of the veranda overlooking a lush lawn, plugged the laptop in and did some work while sipping on a latte. That kept me busy for a couple of hours. Then I headed for the shop where I purchased some internet time (200KSh for 12 hours - that is less than R1 an hour - amazing) and bought a lovely (I think so anyway) Kenyan coarse cotton shirt with blue, black and white stripes. The shop attendant made admiring noises. That cost 550 Ksh, about R55. There are fancier ones with exquisite embroidery for about 700, 800 and 900 KSh - will have to see how much money I have at the end of the week.

Lunch was "Jamaican chicken" - not sure what that is - does it contain marijuana? - and baby marrows (fried again, unfortunately), with soup and rolls. Washed down with cold water. As I said nothing elaborate but very filling and fairly wholesome.

Then it was back to the laptop to catch up on emails and admin, but with the added pleasure of listening to some very fine singing from Wakefield Cathedral, King's College Cambridge and some polyphonal choir singing on "The Choir"with Aled Jones, all courtesy of BBC 3 on broadband. Isn't technology wonderful! Unfortunately couldn't get a good take on "Pipedreams" which is another favorite from American Public Radio - 2 hours of pipe organ music from around the world, updated weekly. The BBC site has a low bandwidth version which is useful for places like this.

Went for a walk down the road to the main gate and back and took some pictures. The sun was just setting and there was a nip in the air but the incline prevented any possibility of chill. Saw some birds - malachite sunbird, black eyed bulbul. This morning I heard a Piet-my-vrou. Some nice trees, some of which I knew but many of which I didn't. Erythrina spp - beautiful orange flowers, tulip tree, likewise, forest fever tree, hibiscus down next to the dam, euphorbia - but many were new.

Dinner was fried fish again. I don't think the mixed vegetables were fried but I may be wrong. The chips definitely were. The salad was a little sad. But why complain - it was tasty and edible.

Monday