America

America

It has been over 2 years since I was in the USA, over 2½ since we left. I think that is mainly a function of the distance. It really is a hell of a long way: 12 hours to Europe and then 7 across the Atlantic plus lead time, layovers and delays on arrival. Getting through it in less than 24 hours in the exception. Or you can do 2 hours to Johannesburg and then the mind numbing 17 hours to New York or Washington, plus 2 hours in Dakar to refuel and to offload/onload passengers and cargo. That’s no better – also 24 hours plus. I prefer the European connection – it just gives you a chance to stretch the legs, get a shower, unwind a bit, have something to eat that doesn’t shout “airport” and “airlines” at you from the other side of the room.

I almost didn’t get there. The day before I was due to leave the UK the Icelandic volcano (she whose name cannot be pronounced) belched forth some more ash and it was touch and go. In the end we left about an hour late, and they had to take us right up north, over Iceland itself (weird as that may sound – the plume was blowing southwards). We got into Dulles, Washington at 8.30 instead of 7.30, which meant that the individual passport control areas had closed for the day and everyone was being channelled through one. I was being picked up by colleagues. As soon as we landed I emailed them (we both have Blackberries), and then periodically emailed updates – when I saw the length of the queue at passport control (6 deep, 90 minute wait), when I got to the front of the queue, when I was waiting for my baggage off the carousel and finally when I got through to say where I was standing. No sign of my friends. It was only then that I noticed that none of the emails had been sent – the hourglass symbol was merrily rotating. The joys of connectivity. We finally found each other and headed off to White Flint, Rockville, where they have an apartment.

It was strange seeing the old familiar sights, US road-signs – no turn on red or the flashing pedestrian crossing indicator with the countdown in seconds next to it,  Washington’s road names – Old Georgetown Road, Rockville Pike, the avenues named after states which fan out from the Capitol like the spokes of a bicycle wheel, the streets in downtown DC very sensibly named “G street” or “F street”, the 495, the 270, route 28, and the names of the Metro stations which I had come to know so well over the course of six months of commuting – Friendship Heights, Medical Center, Bethesda, Strathmore, White Flint, Twinbrook, Rockville, Shady Grove: it all started coming back. The next morning my hosts had to go back to the airport and I took the opportunity to explore the neighbourhood. I eventually found the White Flint Mall, after some difficulty, and the Borders Bookshop. The US has 2 great book shop chains – Borders is one, the other is Barnes and Noble. They tend to have multilevel, well stocked shops with coffee shops attached where one can literally spend hours – and lots of money. I found a book by Karen Armstrong I have been looking for. There were lots of others I looked at and could easily have bought but was thinking of the weight of my suitcase going home so restrained myself. Just as well, as it turned out. I got a cinnamon bagel (another great US institution) and cream cheese for the way home. Only problem was there was no knife and the cream cheese came in a tub, so I was reduced to digging it out and licking it off my forefinger in between taking bites of my bagel. Too much detail. It was delicious.

Sunday night we did sushi at a Japanese restaurant on Rockville Pike. Always amazes me how filling it is – those little delicacies which look like a mouthful are really much more than a mouthful. And if you add a bowl of meso soup for starters, it really is a full meal.

The weekdays were full. I was jetlagged and waking at 3, 4, 5 – so it wasn’t much fun. By the end of the week my clock was coming right but by then it was almost time to leave. I think I ate in on only 1 night out of the 8 nights I was there. Thrice I went to friends, once we went to Teeters for pizza, once to Panera’s, once we ate Thai and once Japanese. And then there were lunch dates as well. Twice they bought in pizza for work functions, twice we went out for pizza (once I had crab-cake), once we had curry at the Bombay Kitchen down the road. It was wonderful to see old friends, catch up, share a meal, drink some good red wine ...

The weather played ball and gave us some glorious spring days. It rained once or twice but not for long. I had intended doing some running but got a bad cold just before I left the UK so that messed up my plans. As a result I expect a shock when next I get on the scale at gym, but a few good workouts should sort it out. Can’t wait to get back to it – I feel like a toad! [Post script: I actually lost 3kg!]

I think Saturday was my best day. I started off with 2-3 hours of work, just clearing the desk so to speak. Then I took the metro through to Bethesda where I was going to meet a friend for lunch. We ended up going up to Montgomery Mall to look for a rug (for her) and an iPad (for my brother). The Apple shop was abuzz with people looking at the iPad and there were plenty salespeople trying to sell us one. The only problem was ... they didn’t have any in stock. Not in the shop, not in the city, not in the country, it seemed – sold out! Well I guess that is what you call a successful product. We grabbed a pizza and then she dropped me off back at Bethesda. I caught the metro (I had a day pass) through to the mall and wandered around for an hour or two renewing my acquaintance with the Capitol building, the Washington monument and a host of other fine buildings, but mostly with the vibe of the place – the Mall has a unique atmosphere which is hard to describe – sort of mixture of national pride and joie de vivre. One sees groups of youngsters and not-so-youngsters playing handball, soccer, people jogging, cycling – all in this superb setting with the Capitol in the background. George Washington University was having its graduation ceremony there the following day – right in the middle of the mall, with that magnificent backdrop. Michele Obama was scheduled to speak.

Then I took the metro back to Friendship heights and met some different friends for a sandwich / bowl of soup / cafe latte at Panera’s – something herself and I did I don’t know how many times in our six months there. Before I left I collected a half dozen assorted bagels, two of which I selected to take home – not sure what they will taste like after 20 000km in the hold but the thought is there.

On Sunday I took the Metro to Shady Grove and met some different friends again, who took me to their church nearby. I have been there once before and find it similar enough to ours to suit me. Even knew some of the songs! After church we drove through to Frederick which is about 30km north west. It has a historic town centre, dating back to the 18^th century and the days of the War of Independence and the Civil War I guess – must look it up. Anyway, there are some stunning old townhouses, lots of churches, court houses and the like and, best of all, some really great restaurants. I was told the quiche was wonderful – in the end I opted for tuna salad, thinking about my cholesterol and my girth, but they were both delicious.

Then it was over and I was sitting in the Super Shuttle hurtling toward the airport at some ungodly speed, driven by a guy from West Africa who didn’t seem to know the meaning of “slow down” or “turn down” (the volume). We survived, but I have had better taxi rides. I guess this was half the usual price so I shouldn’t complain. A last cup of Starbucks latte for old time’s sake and then we were boarded and heading out over the Atlantic.

I am not sure when I shall see the USA again. I hope this won’t be the last time. I am fairly sure I don’t want to live there but I certainly enjoy visiting the place. And there is so much more to see – we barely scratched the surface in our time. Didn’t get to the West Coast, nor Florida – didn’t even get to New York. Will have to pull ourselves together.

A site familiar to any Washingtonian: the Metro station. I have heard many Washingtonian friends complain about it - I think it is magnificent, both as an architectural and engineering accomplishment and as a public amenity. A ride costs between $3 and $4 depending on distance and time of day. It is safe, clean and comfortable. What more do they want?

The well known "Smithsonian Castle" in the Mall, the headquarters of the Smithsonian Institute to which the visitor to DC owes so much for free access to magnificent museums and other attractions like the zoo. I have never actually been inside this particular building but have always loved just looking at it and photographing it.

Another of my favourite buildings on the Mall - and this one I have been into. It is the National Museum of the American Indian (www.nmai.si.edu/). I just love the design of the place - the curve of the walls, the stone, the shadows that are cast, the water features, the exhibits. The family didn't particularly bond with this place, but I did.

Is this the best known landmark in the world? Whatever your politics, it is a magnificent building. For me it brings back many good memories of days spent walking around the Mall, eating hotdogs, or ice creams. Or in the heat of summer simply drinking as much water as possible.

Or maybe this is. The Washington Monument. I have always had mixed feelings about it. No doubt it is impressive. One really needs to get up close and intimate to get a true sense of that. In its own way it is beautiful - in its starkness, its sterility. I expect the Freudians and the Jungians have written books about it. What does it signify? Strength and might undoubtedly. Solidness. Massiveness. Uprightness? Last man standing? Loneliness? The odd one out? I don't know - I don't really get it, but it certainly does something to me, even if it doesn't do much for me.